dogs: Article All dogs

Affichage des articles dont le libellé est Article All dogs. Afficher tous les articles

If a harness is only a tool you use to walk a dog, why do they spark so much debate among dog owners?

For the most part, in one corner there are dog owners whose primary interest lies in protecting their dog from neck and throat injuries. In the other corner are the proponents that believe that if a dog is properly trained to walk on a loose leash, there is no need to worry about throat injuries.

Many trainers will advice that teaching a dog to walk on a harness teaches them to pull; however, there are many harnesses on the market that prohibit dogs from doing just that.

No matter which side of the debate you find yourself, the bottom line is, the use of a harness or collar boils down to personal preference of the dog owner.

Which is better for my dog a harness or collar?

Each side of the debate has its merits however there is no doubt that a dog trained to walk on a loose leash is an absolute pleasure. But, since dogs don’t come in well trained packages, and each dog and owner is different, there is plenty of room in the debate to sing the praises of a well fitting harness.

Since dogs and owners each have their own training and walking style, perhaps rather than worrying about which is better to walk a dog with, a dog harness or a dog collar, a more appropriate question might be, which is better for you?

The bottom line is, each owner needs to feel confident and be in control over their dog.

When choosing a harness or collar, there are a few things to consider:

Size of the dog
Ability to control the dog
Health conditions that affect the dog
Health conditions that affect the owner

When to use a harness on a dog

For dogs that are prone to pulling hard enough to damage their trachea, a harness is a wise choice (along with some proper training and guidance). Harnesses are also excellent choices for small and toy dog breeds.

There are many harnesses available and choosing the right harness will depend upon the needs of your dog.

Toy or small breeds do best with a back attaching harness as their small size makes them easy to control. These harnesses also work well on any dog that walks politely on a leash or has shoulder or neck problems.

For larger dogs that tend to pull or lunge, a front attaching harness works well as it offers more control as the harness will actually tighten when the dog strains against it.

For dogs that require an even higher level of control than a harness, but whose owners don’t want to use a traditional collar, there is a halter, which goes around the back of the head and over the nose that allows more control and the ability to correct unwanted behavior.

When to use a collar on a dog

Traditionally, most dogs are trained to walk on a leash with a collar. There are many types of collars available and the use of each will vary for each dog and the level of control the owner has over the dog. For healthy dogs not at risk of injuring themselves, an owner needs to decide which collar fits best and what collar offers the most control over their dog.

For dogs that walk nicely on a leash and don’t have behavior problems that might endanger another dog or person, for the most part, a traditional collar is best.

For dogs that can easily slip out of their collars, or dogs with necks larger than their heads, a martingale style collar is useful.

Dogs that pull or have potential behavior issues that may require more control in different situations, may need a heavy duty collar, choke or prong collar (for training only).

Pros and Cons of Harnesses

Front clip harnesses:

Pros – Can be used immediately and there’s no training time required. They reduce pulling and give the owner more control over the dog. These harnesses allow you to easily change direction when needed.

Cons- Some dogs will continue to pull while wearing these harnesses. They have to be fitted properly which can be difficult. To stop your dog from pulling and have more control over your dog, you will need to use other equipment, like a head halter, with the harness. Head halters require time for your dog to get used to them. When your dog is on a loose leash his front legs can get tangled in the leash. Front clip harnesses don’t give you enough control should your dog act aggressive.

Back clip harnesses:

Back clip harnesses have the leash clip at the top of the dogs back so they are easy to adjust. Perfect for small dogs or those dogs whose throats have been damaged by collars or have breathing problems.

Cons-These harnesses do nothing for deter pulling and are for calm dogs that don’t pull on the leash. In fact, the design is similar to those used for sled dogs who are encouraged to pull.

Tightening harnesses:

Pros-These harnesses tighten when the dog pulls which causes him to stop or lessen his pulling. They are effective for hindering dogs that are determined to pull.

Cons-It’s important to check out how the harness tightens because some tightening harnesses cause pain. Your dog may associate pain with the harness and become aggressive when you put it on him and not want to go on a walk. We recommend tightening harnesses that put gentle pressure on the dog as they tighten.

WHICH IS BETTER? A HARNESS OR COLLAR?

By: Unknown on: 16:24

Do you know the signs of heart disease? Heart disease symptoms are often confused with other diseases so dog owners need to be vigilant in monitoring their dogs for this disease, especially when they reach seven years and older.

As with any serious disease, early detection and diagnosis of heart disease in dogs can mean the difference between a well productive life and death.

What is heart disease in dogs?

Heart disease in dogs, also known as congestive heart failure, is the inability of the heart to pump enough blood to meet the body’s needs.

According to the Whole Dog Journal, “In congestive heart failure, the heart doesn’t actually fail or stop beating; instead, its valves become thick with scar tissue, which prevents them from closing properly. Leaking valves cause fluid to accumulate on either side of the heart, and the heart grows larger as it works harder. Fluid accumulating on the right side of the heart produces lung congestion and coughing; fluid on the left side leads to edema (fluid retention) in the abdomen. Arrhythmia, or an uneven heartbeat, can occur as well.”

Heart disease in dogs can be inherited from the parents or it can develop over time as with people.

What are the symptoms of heart disease in dogs?

Being familiar with the symptoms of heart disease will help you to notice changes that you might otherwise attribute to another health condition, such as an upper respiratory infection.

If your dog begins acting unusual, or is having any of the following symptoms, a visit to the vet is in order:

Loss of appetite – Loss of appetite for longer than a couple days, suddenly stops eating, or loses interest in food.

Losing or gaining weight – Both weight loss and weight gain are symptoms of heart disease. Gaining weight can be caused by a fluid build up in a dog’s body, especially rapid weight gain or weight gain for no reason.

Coughing – Coughing is a sign of many illnesses including heart disease. A minor cough for a few days is usually nothing to worry about but a chronic cough, or a cough accompanied by coughing up fluid is cause for immediate medical attention.

Difficulty breathing-Labored, rapid, or difficulty breathing are common indicators of canine heart disease.

Lethargy or Weakness – Dog owners often conclude that increased rest and sleeping durations are normal signs of aging, and they often are. However, if symptoms develop quickly, the dog is more lethargic than usual, seems sluggish, or otherwise is not acting normal, no longer interested play times, etc. a trip to the vet to determine the cause is needed.

Restlessness – Abnormal restlessness, roaming, insomnia, and anxiety at night can be a sign of heart disease.

Body swelling or edema – Heart disease can cause swelling in the extremities and abdomen.

Collapsing/fainting – Any time your dog faints or collapses immediately consult with your vet. Various kinds of serious illnesses can cause collapsing or fainting.

Isolation – The dog begins hiding or wanting to be alone.

Changes in behavior – A normally, healthy playful dog that begins displaying behavior changes such as, not wanting to play, acting depressed, seems tired, more winded than usual, pants more often, resists affection, avoid other dogs in the household, no interested in once loved toys, etc.

Heart disease in dogs may present as some or none of these symptoms. Routine veterinary care is the best way to detect the onset of heart disease and other diseases. Early treatment of heart disease will give your dog the best chance for living a longer, happy life.

10 SIGNS OF CANINE HEART DISEASE

By: Unknown on: 16:22

Are the eyes of a dog a mirror of his health? According to Iridologists, the health of your dog is mirrored in the eyes and can be determined through the study of the eye of the dog’s fiber structure, color and markings of the iris of the eye.

What is Iridology for Dogs?

Through the study of assessment of markings within a dogs iris, Iridologists claim they can detect past, present and future health issues to play a role in the diagnosis of current health problems and prevention of potentially harmful disease.

An Iridologist is an alternative health practitioner who claims that patterns, colors, and other characteristics of the iris can be examined to determine information about a dog’s systemic health. Iridologists do not have to be licensed in the United States or Canada.

The theory of iridology dates back to the 17th Century, however iridology has yet to be recognized by mainstream medicine.

Iridologists will carefully examine the iris of a dog’s eye, and match it to iris charts, to identify systems and organs in the dog’s body that may be inflamed, underactive or overactive. However, an Iridologist cannot diagnose specific diseases.

Why use Iridology?

Animal Iridologists claim that the iris records information about a dog’s past and present health and that by identifying what the patterns reveal, they can help dog owners understand what processes are taking place in a dog.

At times an owner suspect there is something wrong with their dog but have no diagnosis by a veterinarian. In these cases they claim iridology is a powerful tool the can be used to:

Help identify past and present health issues in a new pet.
Identify current health strengths and weaknesses to improve diet and health care.
Can identify health strength and weakness before breeding.
Reveal underlying physical problems that may contribute to behavior problems.
Identify potential health concerns.
Asses changes in performance and behavior.
Monitor current and future health to identify potential problems.

In a nutshell, Iridology helps dog owners to become more aware of their dog’s strengths and weaknesses so owners can be more conscious of what they can do to help them live long and healthy lives.

As a dog owner, if you are interested in iridology for your dog, it is possible to find a reputable iridologist, an iridologist that is also a DVM, or an iridologist that is a member of the American Council of Animal Naturopathy.

IS A DOG’S EYE THE MIRROR OF GOOD HEALTH?

By: Unknown on: 16:20

The fall season is here and cold winter months are right around the corner. With the changes in seasons come seasonal products and plants that are hazardous for our pets.

Some common household and environmental chemicals used at this time of the year are extremely toxic and life threatening if our pets ingest them.

Mothballs

Mothballs contain naphthalene or either paradichlorobenzene and both are very toxic. They cause: severe damage to red blood cells, abdominal pain, weakness, vomiting and possible kidney or liver failure.

Mouse and Rat Poisons

When the colder months arrive, all the vegetation begins dying and mice and rats start looking for buildings where they can stay warm and look for food. Many of us try to get rid of our unwelcome guests by putting out rodenticides. If you must use a rodenticide, use it with extreme caution as it can be lethal for dogs. In fact, it’s so deadly that your dog can be poisoned if he eats dead rodents killed with rodenticides (mouse and rat poison).

There are four different kinds of rodenticides on the market, they are: LAAC’s (long acting anticoagulants), Cholecalciferol (Vitamin D3) which has no antidote, Bromethaln also has no antidote and Phosphides which forms dangerous gas.

Symptoms will vary depending on the ingredients in the particular one your dog ingested. Rodenticides will cause internal bleeding, coughing, blood in lungs, bloody urine and bleeding from gums, kidney failure, brain swelling, walking drunk, seizures, tremors, gas and bloat, lung and heart problems. Caution: if you inhale gas when your dog vomits phosphide rodenticides you can be poisoned.

Antifreeze

Antifreeze (ethylene glycol) smells sweet to dogs and they are very attracted to it. Dogs are often killed when they lick it off of driveways or garage floors. Be as careful as you can be when filling up your car, and clean any spills up immediately. As little as 1 tablespoon of antifreeze is fatal. Antifreeze is commonly found in radiators, de-icing products for roads and windshields, brake fluid, motor oil, developing solution for photographers, wood stains, paints and solvents. Symptoms of poisoning are loss of coordination, walking drunk, vomiting, drooling, hypersalivating, kidney failure, crystals in the kidneys, elevated heart rate, dehydration, breathing difficulty, excessive thirst and urination, drooling, depression, lethargy and coma. Prompt intervention is necessary.

Road Salt

Too much salt can be poisonous to dogs and road salt mixed with de-icing chemicals, such as antifreeze, is lethal. We recommend that you keep a pan of fresh clean water handy and wash your dog’s paws if he’s been out on the sidewalk or near the road where he could possibly pick up chemicals and salt on his paws. Salt poisoning alone can cause vomiting, diarrhea, depression, fever, tremors, seizures and death.

You might want to consider using Morton Safe-T-Pet to de-ice your own driveway. It’s a non-toxic salt and chloride free de-icing product that melts when temperatures fall below –15 degrees F.

Playing in Snow

Don’t let your dog off his leash in the snow or ice where he can get salt and de-icing chemicals on his paws. Always clean your dog’s paws, legs and stomach when he comes in from the snow. Not only do dog’s get poisoned by chemicals and salt in the snow they can get chemical burns, chaffing, cracks and splits on paws.

Mushrooms

There are so many different kinds of mushrooms that if your dog eats one it’s best to proceed as though it’s toxic. If your yard has any mushrooms growing in it pull them up. They are so toxic that if your dog eats them get him to the vet immediately so they can pump his stomach and treat him. Depending on the kind of mushroom ingested symptoms of poisoning include diarrhea, vomiting, abdominal pain, depression, walking as if drunk, seizures, tremors, hallucinations, kidney and liver damage.

Compost

Decaying matter in a compost piles or bins can contain molds (tremorgenic mycotoxins) that are toxic. When ingested they will cause seizures and tremors, agitation, hyper-responsiveness, drooling, vomiting, panting and loss of coordination.

Heaters and Fireplaces

When it’s cold our pets like to snuggle up next to anything warm, and heaters, furnaces and fireplaces can be terrible hazards. Keep an eye on your dog so his tail and paws don’t get to close to the source of heat. If you plan to use a heater, look for one that is child and pet safe.

Leaving Your Dog in a Cold Car

Never leave your dog in the car alone. Your car will trap the cold air inside and could cause your dog to suffer frostbite. Also check your vehicles for antifreeze leaks — it’s lethal for cats and dogs. Clean up spills and keep all containers out of paws reach.

Leaving Your Dog in a Car with Heater On

Never leave your dog in the car with the heater running or he may suffer from carbon monoxide poisoning.

COLD WEATHER HAZARDS FOR YOUR DOG

By: Unknown on: 16:17

There’s no set rule for what temperature is too cold for your dog. A good general rule of thumb is if it’s cold enough for you to bundle up then your dog needs to be brought inside.

from the cold along with a shelter to keep them warm.

In states where the temperatures are extreme, there are state laws against keeping dogs outside. An outside shelter is a place for your dog to sleep and get away from the elements for a period of time and not a place for a dog to spend long hours.

Building an outdoor shelter for your dog

The outside shelter should be in an enclosed room like a garage, barn or shed where it will be protected from rain and drafts. The size should be similar to a kennel cage in that your dog should be able to sit down comfortably and curl up in the corner to keep warm, but not have excessive room so heat can’t escape so easily. It should be raised up off the floor so it stays dry.

Seal off the spaces between the floor and the bottom of the shelter to keep the wind out. A protected light bulb can provide extra heat.

Insulate the exterior of the shelter with blankets, or you can even use several thicknesses of large thick trash bags taped or stapled to the exterior of the shelter.

It must be protected from the wind with a door facing away from the outside building’s doorway, with an offset door so the wind won’t be able to blow directly on your dog while in the shelter. The doorway could also be covered with a flap for more protection.

Inside the shelter there should be a nesting box with warm blankets or other insulting materials such as a bed filled with cedar shavings, straw, hay and newspapers to keep your dog warm. Be sure that your dog will like these materials (and not eat them) as many dogs won’t use them. This can lead to getting hypothermia, which is a very real danger.

Hypothermia in dogs

Hypothermia begins when your dog’s core body temperature drops below normal. If your dog goes out in the cold without a good thick coat and an adequate amount of fat on the body a dog can quickly go into hypothermia.

Puppies and senior dogs lack the ability to transition from warm to cold environments safely because they have less muscle mass or fat and their shivering response is less effective than a healthy adult dog making them even more susceptible to hypothermia and illness. Watch your dog closely for any sign of hypothermia. Be extra responsible during cold season.

Signs of Hypothermia in dogs

Whining and barking, trying to talk to you and making eye contact when outside in the cold
Shivering
Looking for a shelter
Anxiety – acting anxious or fearful
Lethargy when outside too long

Cold Weather Care for dogs

Dogs have higher energy needs whenever the temperature drops over 20 degrees F. Rather than feeding your dog one or two meals a day, feed several smaller meals, adding a little more animal fat and vegetable oil to the diet. Increase the caloric intake by 15% for every 20 degree drop in temperature to help her convert energy to heat.

Provide plenty of water. Check and be sure that your dog’s water and food are not frozen.

Nursing bitches will be less likely to become dehydrated if you add warm water to food.

Brushing your dog so the coat is fluffy and clean will help keep them warmer.

Check your dog’s feet and apply a very thin coat of a good salve such as “Bag Balm, Lanolin Based, Moisturizing Ointment” to the pads of her feet to treat cracks, dryness and keep them healthy.

Don’t leave your dog outside for long periods of time.

Be careful when walking your dog to protect from slipping and other dangers.

Dry your dog if she gets wet and never leave a wet dog out in the cold.

Don’t leave your dog alone in the car with the engine running due to carbon monoxide dangers.

The best protection you can give your dog is to keep them indoors when temperatures fall. When outdoors, be sure to observe your dog and if there are any signs of abnormal behavior, its time to come indoors.

HOW COLD IS TOO COLD FOR YOUR DOG TO STAY OUTSIDE

By: Unknown on: 16:14

Thanksgiving should be a wonderful day celebrated with family and friends but the truth is, it can also be very hectic, distracting, albeit wonderfully exhausting. Everyone wants their family, friends, and pets to enjoy a drama free holiday, but sadly many dogs become ill or injured on Thanksgiving.

The reason for this is very simple- with a house full of guests coming and going, bustling around the kitchen, and distractions galore, it is easy to overlook a potential danger that at any other day of the year, probably would not happen.

No one wants their dog to become ill or injured on Thanksgiving and considering that most veterinarian offices are also closed for the holiday, if the worst does happen you’re likely to find yourself sitting in the nearest pet emergency hospital.

Thanksgiving dangers for dogs

To help you prevent your dog from accident and illness this Thanksgiving, we’ve put together a list of the most common holiday hazards that may be easily overlooked.

Escaping the yard or house. With guests and children coming and going, it is easy for a gate or door to be left open and a dog to slip away unnoticed. If possible, designate a safe place for the dog to enjoy with little risk of escape. Assign a family member to caring for the dog, including making potty breaks, greeting guests, and returning to the safe place. Crate your dog if needed.

Feeding the dog table scraps. In our experience, no matter how hard you drill this home, there is always that one guest that will feed the dog when you’re not looking. If your dog suffers from a health condition that could get exacerbated by eating too many scraps, it may be best to keep the dog away from guests during mealtimes. Even the healthiest of dogs can be offered that one bite too many or offered a food your guest has no idea is toxic.

Empty the trash often. Empty the trash as often as possible to ensure the dog stays out of the trash. Thanksgiving tends to be the day that many hazards find their way into the trash such as, cooked bones, foil, corn cobs, string the turkey was tied with, meat fats and skin, uneaten food (including desserts and foods that may contain ingredients toxic for dogs).

Keep decorations out of the dogs reach. Thanksgiving decorations often contain wires, candle wax, have chemical fragrance, may contain lead based paint, dried flowers, dried corn cobs, gourds with lacquer, or contain sharp edges, batteries, and more that can harm dogs.

Hot stoves and other appliances. Use caution with the stove, oven and appliances. Even the best behaved dogs will try to sneak a treat now and then. Large dogs can easily reach the top of the stove or countertops to investigate the tantalizing aromas or investigate hot plates, toaster ovens, crock pots, blenders, food processors and more.

Sugar free desserts and candy. Offering your guests sugar free options is wonderful but artificial sweeteners are toxic for dogs so be sure to keep any sugar free desserts and candy out of the dogs reach and throw leftovers in the trash where they cannot be found. Xylitol, a natural sugar-free sweetener, is often found in gum, mints, mouth wash, nasal sprays, chewable vitamins, baked goods, chocolate, hard candy, etc. When ingested by dogs, it can result in a massive insulin spike, causing a life-threatening hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) and even liver failure with higher doses.

Dessert salads, pies, cookies and cakes. Thanksgiving desserts often contain dried fruits such as raisins and currants and dessert salads often contain grapes, all of which are toxic for dogs and may cause kidney failure. Macadamia nuts are toxic as is chocolate, especially dark chocolate, baking chocolate or pure cocoa powder.

Spices. Some spices can be toxic for dogs and while, in general, a dog would have to ingest a lot of spice to become seriously ill. However, depending upon the dog’s weight and sensitivity level, small amounts can cause digestive problems. It is also not unheard of for a dog to sample spice from the container. Specific spices dangerous to dogs include nutmeg, cinnamon, and ginger. While a bite of something that contains spice is probably not toxic for a dog, according to the Pet Poison Helpline, “Nutmeg contains a toxin called myristicin. The small amount of nutmeg used in recipes is very unlikely to cause serious toxicity, though mild stomach upset could occur if a small amount is ingested. If a very large amount of nutmeg is ingested, myristicin toxicity can cause symptoms including hallucinations, disorientation, increased heart rate, high blood pressure, dry mouth, abdominal pain, and possibly seizures. Symptoms can last up to 48 hours. A pet would need to ingest a very large amount of nutmeg, and this is very unlikely to occur if a dog or cat ingests food with nutmeg in it.”

Onions, leeks, chives, and garlic. All of these foods have the potential to be toxic to dogs and should be kept out of reach.

Unbaked raw dough. When raw dough reaches a dogs stomach, the yeast will rise and release carbon dioxide, which can cause a distended abdomen and BLOAT – potential life-threatening event of gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV). The yeast and sugar in the unbaked dough are also metabolized to alcohol, which can result alcohol poisoning in dogs.

Alcohol poisoning. The obvious culprits including a dog ingesting an alcoholic beverage, egg nog, beer, wine and the like, however also watch for desserts, such as rum cake and candy that may contain alcohol. Accidental ingestion can cause severe coma, slowed respiration, and life-threatening low blood sugar in dogs.

Medications and other miscellaneous items. If you have house guests, they may not even think about your dog exploring their suitcase, purse, or tote. Be sure to ask them to keep all medications and anything else the dog may eat put away and do a visual sweep to ensure you don’t see anything left out.

Let’s keep our dogs safe and sound while we enjoy the holidays! Happy Thanksgiving from our family to yours!

PROTECT YOUR DOG FROM THESE SURPRISING THANKSGIVING HOLIDAY HAZARDS

By: Unknown on: 16:11

Animal shelters can often be unsung heroes. They are one of the first places we check if our beloved dog gets lost and many volunteers and staff spend countless hours trying to save unwanted pets and have to deal with abuse and abandonment daily.

The holidays are a perfect time of year to give back to the shelters we rely on to provide unwanted and lost dogs a safe refuge.

In the Spirit of Giving, here are some ways you can use your skills to can help a shelter during the holiday season or any day of the year.

The first thing to do is determine how much time you can carve out of your busy day and consider what skills you have to offer. Of course, a cash donation is always welcome if you don’t have extra cash, there is no shortage to other valuable ways you can help.

Promoting. Shelters often host adoption and other events and need flyers passed out to local veterinary offices, parks, pet stores, and any other places people congregate.
Social media. Regardless if you are a social media superstar or a casual user, by keeping in touch and sharing shelter information with your friends, you are helping to save lives. If you have some extra time, you could even volunteer to help the shelter keep their own social media pages current
Transportation services. Many times shelters need help transporting animals and if you have a little time and reliable transportation, there is a need to transport dogs and other animals from the shelter to vet appointments and rescue facilities.
Walking dogs. There is always a need to walk shelter dogs and you can fit this volunteer opportunity into your regular exercise routine. The shelter dogs will appreciate the attention and you are benefiting their mental and physical health.
Writing. If you have writing and/or desk top publishing skills, you could volunteer to write newsletters, flyers, web site copy, grants and more.
Website. If you are a web guru, by volunteering to keep the website up to date and functioning can save the shelter lots of money that could be spent on saving lives.
Photography. If you are a photo bug, shelters have a great need for pictures of incoming pets, events, and much more.
Donations other than cash. Shelters have a constant need for food, blankets, cat litter, dishes, and other supplies. Contact the shelter and ask what their current needs are and add some to your shopping list and ask your friends to do the same.
Crafts. If you are crafty, how about volunteering to make items that can be auctioned off or sold to help raise funds for the shelter.
Carpentry/Paint. If you have these skills, your shelter will appreciate your help in making repairs and painting.
Legal. If you are an attorney, you can help a shelter by helping prepare and keep contacts and legal forms updated and review videos, brochures, and other advertising.
Accounting. If you are an accountant, CPA or have excellent bookkeeping skills, you can help the shelter run in the black by donating your time and budgeting expertise.
Trainers. If you are a dog trainer or a dog trainer in training, working with shelter dogs is a perfect way to showcase your skills while improving the dog’s odds of being adopted.
Behaviorists. If you are a trainer or behaviorist, shelters can use to evaluate and screen dogs for behavior problems and to determine personality traits, social skills, triggers for behavior problems, and other important information that’s needed for determining how adoptable an animal is or what kind of home they need.
Medical/Vetting. It goes without saying that many animals that arrive in shelters are in need of medical care, supplies, and medication.
Support. Lending a hand, dropping off a meal, baking cookies, thanking a person, cleaning a kennel, or answering the phone can go a long way to support shelter staff and free up more time to help the dogs in need.
Foster. Shelters fill up fast, especially around the holidays, by offering to foster, you are giving a needy dog a second chance and a safe place to lay their head, and the best chance of being adopted.
Fund-raising. Shelters are in need of money and there are things you can do to help raise it. Set out donation jars and school or work, ask for donations in lieu of birthday or wedding gifts, make bequeaths, etc. are all creative ways to help shelters raise funds.

18 CASH FREE WAYS YOU CAN HELP SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL ANIMAL SHELTER DURING THE HOLIDAYS

By: Unknown on: 15:33

When you give your dog the once over, don’t forget to include checking the eyes. Dog’s have a high pain tolerance and it’s not unheard of for a dog to have an eye injury or problem that cannot be readily noticed.

Symptoms of eye infection or injury in dogs

Healthy eyes should be clear, bright, and the area around the eyeball should be white. The eyes should obviously be free from scratches, no matter how tiny. Pupils should always be equal in size. Both eyes should be free of tearing, discharge and the corners of the eye should be crust free. If you pull down the inner eyelid, the inner lid should be a healthy pink not red, white and not irritated. Because the eyes can be window to your dog’s good health and the fact that even seemingly minor eye problems have the potential to develop into serious conditions, a quick check for the following could potentially save your dog from infection, disease, or potential vision loss:

Discharge
Crusty gunk
Excessive tearing
Red or white eyelid linings
Closed eye or eyes
Cloudiness
Change in eye color
Visible third eyelid
Unequal pupil sizes
Noticeable change in vision
Visible scratches
Redness on the whites
Anything unusual
Bleeding in the eye

If your dog has any of these symptoms or there seems to be any sudden changes in vision, it’s time to see the vet. Any eye injury is cause for an emergency appointment as different treatments can possibly save a dog’s vision and even minor scratches, can cause blindness.

Eye hygiene in dogs

To keep your dogs eyes healthy or to clean pollens and such from the dog’s eyes, moisten a cotton ball with water and wipe from the inner corner outward. To avoid scratching the eye, never rub or wipe if the dog has dirt in the eyes. It is better to keep sterile doggy eye drops/flush on hand and put a few drops in each eye.

For dogs that have long hair, keep hair trimmed and out of the eyes and always keep soaps, lotions, oils, sprays, etc. out of the eyes.

Eye problem prevention

One of the best ways to keep a watch out for eye problems is to be familiar with the conditions inherent to your breed and be sure that your vet checks the eyes at the annual physical.

Common Dog Diseases and Conditions

Conjunctivitis: The dog’s eyes will look red, swollen, and may have discharge.
Dry eye: Diminished tear production can cause corneal inflammation, squinting and discharge.
Cherry eye: Enlarged tear gland forms a cherry-like mass on the dog’s eye lid area.
Epiphora: An overflow of tears creates stains on the dog’s facial fur.
Glaucoma: The cornea becomes cloudy and the eye enlarges due to an increased pressure in the eyeball.
Ectropion: A turning outward or rolling inward of the upper eyelid causes the lower lid to droop and tearing.
Cataract: An opacity on the lens of the eye that can cause impaired vision and possible blindness.
Progressive Retinal Atrophy: Caused by degeneration of retinal tissue-night blindness is often its first sign.
Pannus: an immune-mediated condition affecting the cornea or clear part of the eye. It occurs primarily in middle-aged German shepherd dogs, but other breeds may also be affected. Normally starts with the appearance of a non-painful, elevated pink mass on the cornea.

By keeping both eyes open for these common conditions and detecting potential problems before they get serious, you can help prevent and protect your dog from vision loss.

HOW TO PREVENT VISION LOSS IN YOUR DOG

By: Unknown on: 15:32

Introducing a new adult dog to your home is very exciting and with it comes the hope that this newest family member will be loved and accepted by the current dog occupant and that the adjustment will be quick and easy.

While sometimes this is true, and it seems to be a match made in canine heaven, there are many introductions that cause stress and upheaval, not to mention dangerous situations between the dogs and the dog owners.
Most often these situations occur when well meaning owners mistakenly believe that the dogs will work their problems out on their own and it simply is not the case. Dog drama can quickly turn the most calm of households upside down and even trigger dog fights between the most friendly, socialized dogs.

Despite how sweet and even tempered family dogs seem; they are truly powerful creatures with a strong pack mentality. This pack mentality will trigger the need to establish rank sometimes called rank drive or pack drive. When normally sweet and docile dogs become determined to establish rank over the new dog or the new dog attempts to take over the existing dog’s rank, the dogs are capable of breaking into a level of aggression never seen by their owners previously. This is especially true when the existing dog is territorial, both dogs are dominant, the dogs are not neutered, and if there are male/male or female/female issues going on.

problems can arise when introducing a new adult dog to a home with one existing dog; however the potential is even greater if there are two dogs currently in the home since three dogs make up a pack and may become more territorial. When there are more than three dogs in a pack, the weakest dog may be targeted by the stronger dogs.

Since dogs will always establish ranking order, it is imperative the owner be a strong pack leader that establishes rules and guidance for the pack or one dog will attempt to take over leadership. Always remember, that if you have one existing dog, in the dog’s mind, the human family is part of his pack – always making it three or more.
As soon as a new dog is added to the mix, every dog in the household will re-establish its rank as the new pack is formed. This is the critical time in which dog fights can erupt. Female/female fights tending to be worse than males.

It is up to the owner to protect their dogs from fights since once a dog has been attacked it will forever be impacted by the experience, which can result in dog aggression or fear of meeting new dogs.

The good news is, not all dogs want to be the pack leader so owners have the ability to set clear boundaries that fighting is simply not tolerated and must show all the dogs that they will be protected from other dogs. When meeting the new dog for the first time, it is vital to establish yourself as leader in the new dog’s eyes as this will forever impact the future of your relationship.

When introducing a new dog to the household, the best thing you can do is use a crate. Place the new dog in the crate and allow the established dog to investigate. If the dogs growl, instantly correct and never allow the behavior to escalate to show all the dogs that aggression is never allowed.

After crate introductions go well without aggression, the next step is to introduce dogs with both dogs on leashes. At the first sign of growling or aggression, the new dog goes back in the crate for more training and conditioning.

You can also switch the dogs places and put the existing dog in the crate to allow the new dog to explore the home and yard (always on a leash), take walks, groom, play, feeding, and bonding with the family. By leashing the dog, you are reinforcing your role as leader.

Crate training may take weeks but your first clue that the dogs are getting accustomed to each other is when they ignore each other.

When the dogs ignore each other, it may be time to introduce them face to face. This should once again happen on leashes and the best way is to simply take both dogs for a walk with a separate handler for each dog. If you have any worry that they may fight, muzzle the dogs.

Taking some time to study dog body language before you introduce the dogs is also very helpful so that you can ward off any aggressive triggers before they happen. What you are looking for are two relaxed dogs that feel comfortable on their walk.

If there are no problems on the walk, introductions through a fence are the logical next step. Allow both dogs to greet each other through the fence but leave the leashes on should you need them. After a short greeting, take them for another walk to see how they interact with each other.

Once both dogs seem comfortable on walks and through the fence greetings with no growling or any other sign of aggression, it is time to introduce them face to face.

Additional tips:

Keep all food and toys out of reach

Feed the dogs in different rooms or in their crates

Remove any items that either dog feels territorial over

Do not allow either dog to guard anything

If you don’t feel comfortable, illicit the help of a professional trainer because as the old adage goes, you only get one chance to make a good first impression and when introducing a new grown dog to the house, it is best to take the time to get it right the first time.

HOW TO INTRODUCE A NEW ADULT DOG TO YOUR EXISTING PACK

By: Unknown on: 15:30

Inscription à : Articles ( Atom )

Articles les plus consultés